to the 1930s

The 1930s THE LOOK (Silhouette)

The silhouette of the 1930s, I like to say, was all about the S-es. Sleek, slender styles made of sumptuous silks and satins. (Love that alliteration.) The short, knee-length tubes of the twenties had evolved into dresses that were fitted and flirty and dropping below the knees, just above the ankles, sometimes into hems that were uneven swirls or pointed like handkerchiefs.

The Fit

Some dresses were shaped to the body even further by bust-line seams, or darts, and by sporting padded shoulders to give the illusion of an even longer, slimmer mid-section and hipline. To further create this look, along with shoulder padding, designers added cording or epaulettes, which are those button-flaps seen on military jackets. Another trick to widen the shoulder line was to make the sleeves over-sized puffed or into flowing butterfly wings. This padded shoulder look evolved toward the end of the decade.

The Facts

I’m basing these descriptions on my collection of vintage clothing and fashion illustrations from magazines of the period. Also, from memoirs and biographies which I’ve found so amazingly helpful because as a costumer and clothing historian they give the details about the outfits worn for specific events. That’s unbelievably helpful when you’re trying to set the scene. Then, of course, I’m an avid reader, thus have found you can always learn something new from other fashion historians, and I always do.

The Pussy Bows

Dress designs, also, at this time, in the 1930s, show extra interest given to the necklines with added ruffles, draping cowls, over-sized collars, like the pilgrim, and fabric neckties. These were called pussycat bows, because, apparently, they looked like the bows tied around the neck of a cat. This was a thing, apparently, at the time. (And, still, now, maybe?) This term was then later shortened to pussy bow. And, that name stuck. I’m explaining this because I find it hilarious that they’re back in style, with designers offering just the bow that can be added to your own blouse or frock. That cracks me up.

The Bust

OK, enough of that. Getting back to the 1930s, the line or silhouette remained simple, with the overall effect being what I’d call slinky and saxy. Boobs were back. I never did understand that one – the idea that looking like a boy was fashionable? I didn’t think so. I had to do that once in a musical number when I was a teenager, look like a boy, I mean. I rose to the challenge because there weren’t enough boys in the cast so I got to bind my boobs and wind my hair into a knot under a cap. As a 15-year-old girly-girl, I did not think this cool or fun at all. Yet, I do realize that back in the 1920s, to some it must have felt pretty wonderful to let it all hang loose after the bindings of the corset days. (I’ll show you that pic of me as a boy dancer just as soon as I find it.)

MORE PHOTOS WILL SOON BE POSTED

Still, it had to be a challenge for those big-bosomed girls of the twenties, trying to create that fashionable androgenous look. What a welcomed relief it must’ve been for them. The fashionable look had gone from “androgenous to sinuous,” say the historians at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York (fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu). And though this new style, they say, did hold a resemblance to the twenties, it did not feature what they called an “unfitted sack.”

The Sack

I love that visual! What a great way to describe some of those 1920s Flapper gowns. No form at all. And, yes, you did look like you were wearing a bag. Albeit, a very lovely bag, but still a bag. And, believe you me, I know. For, once again I rose to the occasion for a part – the melodramatic actress Vera in the musical, Mame. The dress I wore was my very own, lovely, vintage, periwinkle blue Flapper gown. And though it did have a handkerchief hem that was supposed to elongate my torso and was adorned with rhinestones and pearls, so very lovely, I was still wearing a bag. It really was not flattering to me at all. And what a dumb idea. I mean, wearing a vintage dress for a stage production? What was I thinking? I should have known better. The dress did survive the ordeal, but barely. And, now, at more than 100 years old, it’s beyond fragile and has been gently rolled into archival tissue paper, placed in an archival grade garment box and is living in a cedar-lined trunk in my climate-controlled house.

Anyway, getting back to the 1930s’ style, I can see that the fashionable gals were more than ready to throw out the old sack dress and bring in the new slim fits. Yes, those girls were ready to embrace and flaunt their feminine curves. Like the song says, they wanted to “ac-cen-tu-ate the positive,” by showing off their figures and glitzing them up, to boot. 

The Suits

Now. Though this may all be true, about the fashion and style, it certainly couldn’t be said for all, especially those in the Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo camps, who both stole their looks from the man’s closet, by embracing the pantsuit. But not necessarily wearing it in a manly way. No. They, too, glammed them up -- with anything they could find -- satin heels, slinky tops, soft sweaters, and even, top hats, boas and pearls. This look was not diaphanous. But it was sexy and glam, all the same.

At this point, it should go without saying that I do realize many women, during this time period, especially, did not have the money to buy the latest fashion and were simply doing their best to get by making do with what they had. That might’ve even meant taking-in the seams or cinching in the waist of a favorite dress from the past and adding rows of ruffles to the skirt or even a handkerchief hem. Clothes in those days were, indeed, cherished and passed down from generation to generation. So, we just don’t know. But my guess is they were pretty creative. Because, well, they had to be. 

With that said, it really does seem that by this point, women were truly beginning to create their own individual style, no matter what their circumstances, rich or poor. They continued to embrace their new-found freedom and independence. And, designers were taking notice and creating new styles that moved easily from home, to work, to play. At this time, it also seems, the average young woman was branching out and embracing new activities like tennis and cycling or becoming more worldly by traveling or even daring to emulate her favorite movie star.  

This led to three key new looks for the 1930s …

The Working Girl, Sports Casual & Hollywood Glam.

The Working Girl

At this period in time, daywear needed to be functional while still maintaining its femininity and elegance. This longer, fitted dress style, then needed to allow for movement which was achieved by adding the afore mentioned flare skirts and handkerchief hems, and even, kick pleats. Blouses were fussy and frilly in silks, rayons and chiffons with ornamental ties, like the pussy bow, and other frills.

Yes, day dresses needed to be functional, but with that said, the woman of the thirties still wanted colors and patterns. You’ll find this represented by florals, plaids, dots and even abstract prints spilling over from the Art Deco twenties. Though many of the day dresses were in chiffons, crepes and lightweight fabrics, the designers followed more tailored lines and sculpted, defined shoulders for women’s suits. It was during this time that padded shoulders became popular in both suits and dresses. This look which came in toward the end of the decade and brought back the knee-length hem took us right into the 1940s.  

Sports Casual

Now, I’ve already mentioned the casual, sporty knit day-to-evening dress introduced in the late twenties by the French designer Coco Chanel, but by the early 1930s women wanted even more. They wanted clothing created for their individual athletic activities, for hiking, tennis and golf. And, they were already seeing their favorite stars wearing pants in film, like Marlene Dietrich in Morocco and Greta Garbo in Desparate. So, I’m thinking they said: “Why not?” 

INSERT: Desparate Producer Irving Thalberg balked at the idea of putting Garbo in pants fearing it would be financial ruin.

CLICK HERE to read about his reported conversation with his female writer Mercedes de Acosta, from the book, The Sewing Circle, by Axel Madsen.

Hollywood Glam

OK. Hollywood Glam. What’s not to like about that? Dressing like Garbo or Dietrich? For when those gals donned a slinky gown, man, judging from their pictures, there was nothing more sensual.  And, as I’ve mentioned, emulating your favorite movie star, at his point in time, who you’d just seen on the big screen, was the perfect sign of the times, during this Golden Age of cinema.  

And, it was soon becoming the norm. Remember, this was during The Great Depression, when women, in particular, it’s been said, were looking to escape from reality and flocking to the movies. I can only imagine what that might have been like. Seeing my favorite movie star and being inspired to run back home and create her dress with my own hands. 

Heck, back then, I could’ve even run out to the store and bought a knock-off, if I had the money, because movie fashions were now being sold in stores. Can you imagine? Wouldn’t that have be a kick? We certainly can’t do that now, without spending a fortune. But back then, when the film industry was in its infancy, producers were hiring established designers, like Chanel and Schiaparelli, who already had clothing lines in stores and movie costume designers, like Adrian and Edith Head, were now recreating their movie looks for the new Ready-to-Wear market. It’s really quite amazing, when you think about it.

Garbo Gown . Flappers to Fringe Collection

The PREP: "This beautiful satin gown in my collection was ironed and combed for its photo shoot. I had to use a fine toothed comb on the fringed sleeves. It’s an old trick I learned back in the 1970s when I wanted to fringe my blue jean shorts. No need for that now because you can buy them already fringed. Now, what’s the fun in that, I ask you?

The SHOOT: “Anyway, for the photo shoot, I got the dress ready then Oakley did her hair and makeup and slid into my vintage satin slippers and grabbed 'the animal' (as she calls it) to complete the look. So fun." Leslie Drollinger Stratmoen, owner/curator, Flappers to Fringe.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE GARBO GOWN PHOTO SHOOT …

KEY PIECES

So, What Am I Packing in The 1930s Steamer Trunk?

Well, exactly what the fashionable young working gal of the 1930s would have in her wardrobe – two or three frilly day dresses, a couple that were more tailored for work, a silky blouse or two, a flared tulip skirt, some casual wide-length trousers with a sweater top, an all-occasion little black dress and a couple of long, slinky gowns. And, of course, all the accessories: gloves, purses and heels; scarves and a fur boa (dubbed The Animal) plenty of blingy jewelry to include rhinestones and pearls; and hats -- a beret, tilt, skull and straw portrait. Oh, and I won’t forget the top hat, tux and walking stick to round out my Dietrich look.

THAT’S IT FOR NOW

STAY TUNED -- NEXT UP To BE POSTED – The Underpinnings & Accessories

STILL TO COME – The Influencers like The Stars, The Designers, and The Famous People, Places and Events of the Times And, The Inventions.

Please Note: This copy and all photos on Flappers to Fringe Vintage are copyright Leslie Kay Productions. My goal is always to provide accurate information while honoring all copyrights.

References Include: “100 Years of Fashion” by Cally Blackman (2012) Laurence King Publishing Ltd.; “Dressing the Decades” by Emmannuelle Dirix (2016) Yale University Press, Quid Publishing; “Chanel’s Riviera” by Anne De Courcy (2019) The Orion Publishing Group Ltd.; “The Sewing Circle” by Axel Madsen (1995) Kensington Publishing Corp.; and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York (fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu).